Piaget – Altiplano Skeleton (Only Watch 2011)

For the fourth consecutive time, Piaget is supporting the Only Watch charity auction. This exceptional event, held every two years in Monaco during the Monaco Yacht Show, is under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II. All the proceeds from this auction go to support research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This disease is characterized by a progressive weakening of the muscles which results in respiratory and cardiac problems which can prove fatal to children.

The quest for excellence and the development of new calibres illustrates Piaget’s capacity for innovation. Its unique ultra-thin achievements as well as its creative interpretations of the finest horological complications establish the brand at the very peak of watch movement manufacturing traditions. Calibre 838P Skeleton is one of these creations that highlight the brilliant skill of the in-house artisans. This year, for Only Watch 2011, Piaget is offering for the first time an Altiplano Skeleton with a black PVD treatment. In accordance with the tradition of this charity auction, the Altiplano Only Watch 2011 is a one-of-a kind creation.

Prior to the auction that will take place during the Monaco Yacht Show on September 22nd; the public will have the opportunity to discover the Altiplano Skeleton, and the other 19 participating watches, in various locations around the world.

Singapore (The Hour Glass) 30 August

Hong Kong (Antiquorum Auctioneers Ltd.) 1 September

Shanghai (Antiquorum Shanghai): 3 September

Beijing 5 September

Tokyo (The Hour Glass): 7 September

Los Angeles (Westime Beverly Hills): 9 September

New York (Antiquorum Auctioneers Ltd): 12 September

Milan (Orologerio Luigi Verga): 15 September

Geneva (Antiquorum SA): 16 & 17 September

Monaco (Monaco Yacht Show): 21– 22 September

Auction – Hôtel Hermitage 22 September, 4:00pm

Source: Piaget


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Blancpain – Villeret Quantième Annuel GMT

(EN – IT)

This year, Blancpain is presenting its first Annual Calendar combined with the GMT function – an original association of these two complications enriching the Villeret collection and providing further proof of the innovative spirit cultivated by the Manufacture from Le Brassus.

The Villeret Annual Calendar GMT is equipped with the new Calibre 6054F developed by Blancpain’s R&D teams. This self-winding movement requires just one date adjustment per year, at the transition from February to March. For all other months, the watch itself moves on from the 30th or the 31st to the first day of the following month. It also has a small 24-hour hand in a subdial at 8 o’clock, which serves as a reference time. The GMT function is provided by the central hour hand of the watch, which is linked to the date. The generously sized date apertures are arranged in such a way as to ensure optimal readability.

This new model is available in white or red gold versions. The hands and hour-markers on the stamped opaline white dial match the material of the case, which is equipped with Blancpain’s under-lug correctors system. The corrector at 1 o’clock serves to modify the day, and the one at 5 o’clock to adjust the month. Fast GMT, date and time-setting adjustments can be made using the crown. The sapphire crystal case-back of the 40 mm-diameter case reveals the ingenious mechanism of the movement and its guilloché-work oscillating weight. The alzavel-lined alligator leather strap is fitted with a triple-blade folding clasp ensuring optimal user friendliness.

Movement – Self-windings. Caliber 6054F. Diameter 32,00 mm. Thickness 5,57 mm. Power-reserve 72 hours. 35 Jewels. Under-lug correctors.

Functions – Annual Calendar with GMT. Hours. Minutes. Seconds. Date (Month. Number. Day of the week).

Case – White or Red Gold. Diameter 40,00 mm. Thickness 10,90 mm. Interhorn space 22 mm.

Dial – Stamped opaline dial.

Glass – Sapphire crystal on both sides.

Water-resistant – 3 ATM (30 meters).

Strap – Mississippiensis alligator leather.

Blancpain presenta quest’anno il suo primo Calendario annuale abbinato alla funzione GMT. Si tratta di un originale accostamento delle due «complicazioni» che viene ad arricchire la collezione Villeret, e di un’ulteriore dimostrazione della capacità inventiva della Manifattura di Le Brassus.

Il modello Villeret Quantième Annuel GMT ospita il nuovo calibro 6054F, messo a punto dagli addetti al settore Ricerca & Sviluppo di Blancpain. È un movimento automatico che richiede una sola regolazione all’anno della data, al momento del passaggio da febbraio a marzo. In tutti gli altri mesi l’orologio scatta automaticamente dal 30 o dal 31 al primo giorno del mese successivo. Esso dispone inoltre di una piccola lancetta per l’indicazione su 24 ore in un contatore all’altezza delle ore 8, che funge da ora di riferimento. La funzione GMT è assicurata dall’ora centrale dell’orologio, alla quale è collegata la data. Le finestrelle della data, dalle dimensioni generose, sono collocate in modo da facilitare la lettura.

Questa novità è disponibile in oro bianco o in oro rosso. Le lancette e gli indici del quadrante opalino sono assortiti con il materiale della cassa, dotata di un sistema di correttori sotto le anse: una esclusività Blancpain. Il correttore all’altezza dell’ora 1 permette di modificare il giorno, quello all’altezza delle ore 5 consente di cambiare il mese. Le correzioni rapide del GMT, della data e la regolazione dell’ora si effettuano mediante la corona. Il fondocassa in zaffiro, del diametro di 40 mm, rivela l’ingegnoso meccanismo del movimento e la sua massa oscillante arabescata. Il cinturino, in alligatore foderata di alzavel, ha una chiusura pieghevole in tre parti
che garantisce un comfort ottimale.

Movimento – Automatico. Calibro 6054F. Diametro 32 mm. Spessore 5,57 mm. Riserva di marcia 72 ore. 35 Rubini. Correttori sotto le anse.

Funzioni – Calendario Annuale GMT. Ore. Minuti. Secondi. Data (Mese. Numero. Giorno della settimana).

Cassa – Oro bianco o Oro rosso. Diametro 40 mm. Spessore 10,90 mm. Ponte 22 mm.

Quadrante – Opalino punzonato.

Vetro – Zaffiro in entrambi i lati.

Impermeabilità – 3 ATM (30 metri).

Cinturino – Pelle di alligatore Mississippiensis.

Source / Fonte: Blancpain

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Glashütte Original – Senator Navigator WorldView

It’s the 1920s. Aviation is in its infancy, yet all countries in Europe and around the world have already grasped the strategic importance of this revolutionary means of transportation. It opens endless opportunities simply by making the world a smaller place. Inventors and pioneers are testing the limits of existing technologies in a bid to push exploration and commerce as far as they can go. Germany is a forerunner of this push and its civil aviation goes as far as establishing a regular service linking Berlin to cities such as Moscow, Beijing and Shanghai.

Of course, back then, timetables and “connecting flights” had very different meanings to what we have come to take for granted when we travel today. The available technology and instrumentation were so minimal that a pilot also had to be a mechanic, a navigator, a photographer and cartographer to document routes – to put it simply: a pilot was an adventurer.

A watch was very much part of a pilot’s on-board instrumentation. Pilot watches were developed and produced whose main design requirements were their size – they needed to be worn on top of thick layers of warm clothing – and their readability, which had to be optimal day and night. To help with navigation they had to be accurate, as well.

With the Senator Navigator WorldView, Glashütte Original presents an homage to those adventurous times and their spirit. Entirely consistent with the 20th Century Vintage collection styling, the Senator Navigator WorldView has an adjustable city-ring that allows its user to determine the time across different time zones. With oversize numerals for ideal readability, the watch also sports Glashütte Original’s own panorama date at 6 o’clock, placing the wearer firmly in control of the situation.

The sapphire case back reveals the caliber 39-47. With its skeletonised rotor with 21ct gold oscillation weight and swan-neck fine adjustment and Glashütte three-quarter plate with stripe finish, it is a sight to behold, as well as an example of the fine craft of watchmaking from Glashütte Original. With its sporty and sturdy design, the Senator Navigator WorldView is the ideal companion for the adventurous, cosmopolitan individual who likes to have the world at a glance on his wrist. And while flying may have become much more a part of our everyday lives, it still retains a sense of wonder and discovery of new places that we should never lose.

Movement – Selfwinding. Caliber 39-47. Diameter 30.95 mm. Height 5.9 mm. Balance – German silver balance. Oscillating frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Jewels 39. Power Reserve 40 hours (+/- 5 %). Balance spring – Nivarox flat spring. Shock protection – Incabloc. Exquisitely finished movement, polished steel parts, bevelled edges, Glashütte three-quarter plate with stripe finish, skeletonised rotor with Glashütte stripe finish, rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, swan-neck fine adjustment.

Functions – central hours, minutes and seconds, second stop, panorama date at 6 o’clock.

Case – Stainless steel. Diameter 44.0 mm. Height: 13.9 mm. Case-back – Sapphire crystal.

Dial – Black dial with rotating flange ring and additional time zones, two crowns.

Glass – Sapphire crystal, on both sides anti-reflective.

Water-resistant – 5 ATM (50 meters).

Strap – Calf skin cognac “used” look.

Source: Glashütte Original

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Hublot – Oceanographic 4000 (Only Watch 2011)

(EN – IT)

It is a symbolic watch. The 4000 m watch. A watch developed for pushing the limits of what is rational and possible. It has taken 18 months of research, development and testing to present the Oceanographic 4000, a watch which can be worn on dives to depths of 4,000 metres, under extreme pressure – an exceptional technical achievement.

For the 4th edition of Only Watch, Hublot is proud to support the event with the presentation of a unique, brand new Oceanographic 4000. Unique, because it is the very first piece in a new family of ultra-technical watches – not yet delivered – developed by Hublot to be able to dive to extreme depths of up to 4000 m. Brand new because, to distinguish itself from those that will follow, it possesses an aesthetic balance perfectly in keeping with the principality, featuring red and white indexes to reflect the colours of the Monaco flag.

In addition, the Oceanographic 4000 takes its name directly from the “Musée Océanographique de Monaco” (Monaco Oceanographic Museum) with which Hublot enjoys a partnership. A particularly fitting creation for the principality, the venue and birthplace of the Only Watch initiative.

Movement – Mechanical with automatic winding HUB1401. No. of components 180. Jewels 23. Bridges – Satin-finished, bevelled & polished. Screws – Black PVD. Barrel – With reinforced spring. Escapement – Glucydur hairspring. Power Reserve Approximately 42 hours.

Case – “King Power”. 48 mm diameter. Matt carbon fibre. Bezel Matt carbon fibre. 6 black PVD H-shaped titanium screws. Bezel lug – Black composite resin. Lateral inserts – Black composite resin. Case-back – Satin-finished and microblasted titanium with black PVD treatment. Crown – Black PVD titanium with black rubber insert. Screws – Black PVD titanium.

Dial – Matt black. Red indexes with white SuperLuminova™.

Hands – Red with white SuperLuminova™.

Crystal – Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment.

Water resistance – 400 ATM (4000 metres).

Strap – Red stitched alligator on black rubber.

Clasp – Black PVD titanium ardillon buckle.

È un orologio simbolo. Quello dei 4.000. Destinato a stabilire i nuovi limiti del razionale, del possibile. Sono occorsi 18 mesi di ricerche, sviluppo e test per poter presentare l’Oceanographic 4000, un orologio in grado di scendere ad una profondità di 4.000 metri: una pressione estrema, un eccezionale livello tecnologico.

In occasione della 4a edizione di Only Watch, Hublot è lieta di contribuire all’evento presentando un inedito ed esclusivo “Oceanographic 4000”. Esclusivo in quanto è il primissimo esemplare di una famiglia di orologi supertecnologici che non sono ancora stati distribuiti, sviluppati da Hublot affinché potessero raggiungere la profondità estrema di 4000 metri. Inedito perché, per differenziarlo da quelli che lo seguiranno, questo modello esibisce un’estetica particolarmente adatta al Principato, grazie agli indici rossi e bianchi come i colori di Monaco.

L’Océanographique 4000 prende inoltre il suo nome direttamente dal Museo Oceanografico di Monaco, con cui Hublot è in collaborazione. Si tratta quindi di una creazione perfetta per il Principato dove si svolge e in cui ha avuto origine l’iniziativa Only Watch.

Movimento – Meccanico a carica automatica HUB1401. N. di componenti 180. Rubini 23. Ponti – Satinati, smussati e lucidati. Viti – PVD nero. Bariletto – A molla rinforzata. Scappamento – Spirale Glucydur. Riserva di carica Circa 42 ore.

Cassa – “King Power”. Diametro 48 mm. Fibra di carbonio opaca. Lunetta – Fibra di carbonio opaca. 6 viti in titanio PVD nero a forma di H. Disco anse – Resina composita nera. Inserti laterali – Resina composita nera. Fondello – Titanio satinato micropallinato con trattamento PVD nero. Corona – Titanio PVD nero con inserto in caucciù nero. Viti – Titanio PVD nero.

Quadrante – Nero opaco. Indici rossi con SuperLuminova™ bianco.

Lancette – Rosse con SuperLuminova™ bianco.

Vetro – Zaffiro con trattamento antiriflesso.

Impermeabilità – 400 ATM (4000 metri).

Cinturino – Alligatore rosso cucito su caucciù nero.

Chiusura – Fibbia ad ardiglione in titanio PVD nero.

Source / Fonte: Hublot

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Hermès – Only Watch Arceau Time Suspended (Only Watch 2011)

The Arceau Le Temps suspendu watch conceals time and erases it from the dial whilst continuing to register its ceaseless march. This new horological complication developed exclusively for Hermès is a world first.

Behind a simple and playful gesture lies a sophisticated mechanism capable of making the user forget time via a subtle play of cams, pinions and segments. The mechanics behind the illusion are created by an additional module enabling automatic and spontaneous alternation between suspended time and standard time.

Protected by two patents – one for its construction and the other for the play-reducing gear teeth – this gem of horological engineering alone comprises no less than 24 jewels and is equipped with three play-reducing wheels. The running time and suspended time phases are coordinated by two synchronised column wheels, one driving the hours, and the other the minutes coupled with the date. The 360° retrograde hour and minute mechanisms make time disappear without interrupting the relentless running of the movement.

The herringbone guilloché dial motif bears the Hermès hallmark, while the contrasting retrograde indications are enhanced by a delicately grained finish. The asymmetrical design created by the winding crown placed at 2 o’clock hints that harmony can stem from paradoxes. Such as that of deliberately eclipsing time before willingly rejoining it.

Unique piece.

Movement – Mechanical self-winding. “Time Suspended” module. 34 mm in diameter (15 lignes). 6.15 thick. 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). 42-hour power reserve. 254 parts including. 45 jewels. Circular-grained and snailed bridges. Oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève motif.

Functions – Hours, minutes, date with retrograde functions.

Specific features – Triple retrograde (world first). 360° retrograde hour and minute hand. Retrograde date hand. Function for starting and stopping the hands (making time suspended) by pressing a pushbutton.

Case – Palladium. 43 mm in diameter.

Dial – Blue grained and snailed dial with herringbone motif. “Time Suspended” zone at 12 o’clock.

Hands – Skeleton.

Glass – Anti-glare sapphire crystal.

Water-resistant – 3 ATM (30 meters).

Strap – Matt indigo alligator. Folding safety clasp in palladium.

Source: Hermès

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Frédérique Constant – Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu [Limited Edition]

(EN – IT)

Frédérique Constant is proud to introduce its new Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu. With its hand-enameled dial this will certainly become a highly sought-after rarity. Genuine enamel dials are nowadays made by only a handful of manufacturers with an incredibly rich tradition.

Enameling is an ancient technique where finely powdered colored glass is applied to a metal plate. The metal plate with the glass powder is then backed in an oven, hot enough to melt the glass. This enameling process produces a beautiful deep, shiny surface.

Only few of the applied plates will survive the 900+ degree Celsius fire in the oven and produce an even surface. The slightest imperfection in the mixed powder, the supporting metal plate or a dust speckle will ruin the dial and the enameller has to start all over again.

Manufacture Tourbillon Caliber
Based on its award-winning Heart Beat Manufacture Calibre, Frédérique Constant developed its Tourbillon fully in-house with a number of unique features:
– Silicium (or Silicon) Escapement Wheel and lever.
– Smart Weight Balancing.
– Fast Oscillation at 28’800 BpH.
– Tourbillon Cage individually numbered.

Silicium (or Silicon) Escapement Wheel
The Silicium Escapement Wheel and Lever have the following three main advantages:

Lubricant-free running
– Age-related thinning and drying of lubrication will no longer occur.
– An escapement wheel without oiling avoids the risk that oil spreads to other parts of the movement.

Very light (low inertia)
– The escapement wheel is accelerated and stopped at each tick and tock of the watch. The lower weight silicium escapement wheel has lower inertia, increasing energy efficiency.

Good friction properties
– Lower friction reduces loss of energy, hence the energy requirement for the calibre is lower.

With its three main advantages compared to a regular escapement wheel, a Silicium escapement wheel is particularly useful in a Tourbillon mechanism. The reduced weight of the Silicium escapement wheel and the better friction properties result in a substantially higher energy efficiency. As a result, the Frédérique Constant Tourbillon with Silicium escapement wheel has an amplitude of over 300 degrees in dial-up and dial-down positions. Even in the crown-down position, the amplitude is over 275 degrees, which is substantially better than the performance of other high-end tourbillons.

Smart Weight Balancing
The Frédérique Constant Tourbillon Cage consists of 80 individual parts. Each of these parts is produced to the highest possible tolerance, with a precision of 1-2 micron (0.001-0.002 mm). Many of the parts are produced on Frédérique Constant’s ultra precise CNC machines in Plan-les-Ouates. These CNC machines of the latest custom-made generation have a tolerance of 1 micron on the X and Y axes and 2 micron on the Z axe. Even with such a high degree of precision, it is impossible to have a 100% equal distribution of weight in the individual parts; for a Tourbillon to run accurately, an equal distribution of weight is essential. Frédérique Constant solved this problem by the patented “Smart Screw” system on the outer edge of the Tourbillon cage. At first, the Tourbillon cage is constructed with a slight over-weight opposite the Smart Screw system on the main Cage Wheel. Thereafter, a highly skilled watchmaker is able to balance the weight into the center of the Tourbillon cage by adding or exchanging tiny metal rings under the two screws on the main cage wheel. Typically, 8 hours are required for a watchmaker to adjust the tiny rings and balance the weight perfectly for the entire Tourbillon cage.

Fast Oscillation
The Frédérique Constant Tourbillon runs at 4 Hertz whereby the balance wheel beats 28’800 times per hour. Hence, in a Frédérique Constant Tourbillon, the balance wheel swings 28,800 times an hour and the gear train moves forward 691,200 times in 24 hours. In four years, this represents over one billion impulses.

Most competing Tourbillons run at 3 Hertz only. The higher ‘Beats per Hour’ (BpH) enable a higher accuracy of the Tourbillon caliber. The higher oscillation also makes the caliber less susceptible to gyration effects.

Individually Numbered
Each Tourbillon cage is individually numbered to show the Limited Edition of 188 pieces. The minuscule top plate in the center of the Tourbillon cage is sequentially numbered during production on the Frédérique Constant CNC machine. The number on the cage will match the Limited Edition number on the case, making the combination of calibre and case unique.

Limited Edition to 188 pieces.

Movement – Automatic Calibre FC-980. One minute Tourbillon. Balance-cock on dial side. Diameter 30.50 mm (13 ¼ ). 28.800 BpH. 33 jewels. Incabloc anti-shock system. Glucydur balance. Nivarox No. 1 balance spring. Power reserve 48 hours. Bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage, finished anglage and rhodiage. 188 components. Each movement individually numbered.

Functions – Hours, minutes, seconds, day-night indicator.

Case – 18K Rose Gold, round shape, three-pieces case. Diameter 42 mm. Thickness 11 mm. Case-back secured with 6 screws. Each case individually numbered.

Dial – Genuine Enameled. Fine black Roman numerals. Black steel hands. Rose gold and blued steel day-night indicator.

Crystal – Antireflective convex sapphire crystal, antireflective sapphire crystal case back.

Water-resistant – 3 ATM (30 meters).

Strap – Genuine hand-stitched Alligator leather with water-resistant lining. Additional folding buckle included.

Frédérique Constant è orgogliosa di presentare il nuovo Manufacture Tourbillon Grand Feu. Il suo quadrante smaltato a mano diventerà sicuramente una rarità molto ricercata. Oggi, i quadranti in vero smalto vengono prodotti da pochissime manifatture che hanno alle spalle una tradizione straordinariamente ricca.

La smaltatura è una tecnica antica in cui si applica su una lastra di metallo una polvere finissima di vetro colorato. La lastra di metallo con la polvere di vetro viene poi messa in forno, ad una temperatura sufficientemente alta per fondere il vetro. Questo processo di smaltatura dà origine ad una bella superficie lucida e profonda.

Solo alcune delle lastre resisteranno in forno ad una temperatura di oltre 900 gradi Celsius e produrranno una superficie piana. La minima imperfezione nel mix di polvere, nella lastra metallica di supporto o un granello di polvere rovinerebbe il quadrante e lo smaltatore dovrebbe ricominciare tutto da capo.

Calibro Manufacture Tourbillon
Partendo dal premiato calibro Heart Beat Manufacture, Frédérique Constant ha sviluppato internamente il suo Tourbillon, dotandolo di alcune caratteristiche uniche:
– Silicio per la ruota di scappamento e la leva.
– Ripartizione ottimale del peso.
– Oscillazione veloce a 28.800 alternanze/ora.
– Gabbia del Tourbillon numerata.

Ruota Di Scappamento In Silicio
La ruota di scappamento e la leva in silicio hanno tre vantaggi principali:

Marcia senza lubrificazione
– Il lubrificante non si ridurrà a causa dell’invecchiamento né si essiccherà.
– Una ruota di scappamento senza lubrificante evita il rischio che l’olio si diffonda ad altre parti del movimento.

Inerzia minima
– La ruota di scappamento accelera e si ferma ad ogni tic tac dell’orologio. Il minor peso della ruota di scappamento in silicio produce minore inerzia e quindi maggiore efficienza energetica.

Buone proprietà di attrito
– Il minore attrito riduce la perdita di energia, quindi il fabbisogno energetico del calibro è inferiore.

Con i suoi tre vantaggi principali rispetto a una normale ruota di scappamento, una ruota di scappamento in silicio è particolarmente utile in un meccanismo a tourbillon. In particolare, il minor peso della ruota di scappamento in silicio e le migliori proprietà di attrito danno origine a un’efficienza sostanzialmente maggiore in termini di energia. Di conseguenza, il Tourbillon Frédérique Constant con ruota di scappamento in silicio ha un’ampiezza di oltre 300 gradi nelle posizioni a quadrante in alto e quadrante in basso. Anche nella posizione con corona in giù, l’ampiezza è di oltre 275 gradi, un risultato decisamente migliore rispetto a quello di altri tourbillon di alta gamma.

Ripartizione Ottimale Del Peso
La gabbia del Tourbillon Frédérique Constant è formata da 80 parti. Ciascuna di queste parti viene realizzata con la tolleranza più alta possibile, e con una precisione di 1-2 micron (0,001- 0,002 mm). Molte parti sono realizzate con la macchina CNC ad altissima precisione di Frédérique Constant a Plan-les-Ouates. La macchina CNC, di ultima generazione, ha una tolleranza di 1 micron sugli assi X e Y e di 2 micron sull’asse Z. Pur con un tale grado di precisione, è impossibile distribuire il peso nelle parti individuali in maniera perfettamente equilibrata. Affinché un Tourbillon funzioni in modo preciso, è essenziale che vi sia una distribuzione uguale del peso. Frédérique Constant ha risolto questo problema con un sistema brevettato di “Vite intelligente” sul bordo esterno della gabbia del Tourbillon. All’inizio, sulla gabbia del tourbillon viene collocato un leggero sovrappeso opposto al sistema “Vite intelligente” sulla ruota principale della gabbia. Da quel momento in poi, un maestro orologiaio altamente esperto è in grado di equilibrare il peso nel centro della gabbia del Tourbillon, aggiungendo o scambiando piccolissimi anelli di metallo sotto le due viti nella ruota principale della gabbia. Di solito, gli orologiai hanno bisogno di 8 ore per regolare i piccoli anelli ed equilibrare perfettamente il peso nell’intera gabbia del Tourbillon.

Oscillazione Rapida
Il Tourbillon Frédérique Constant si muove alla velocità di 4 Hertz, mentre il bilanciere batte 28.800 volte all’ora. Quindi, in un Tourbillon Frédérique Constant, il bilanciere oscilla 28.800 volte all’ora e l’ingranaggio si muove in avanti 691.200 volte in 24 ore. In quattro anni, questo equivale a oltre un miliardo di impulsi.

Molti tourbillon dei marchi concorrenti si muovono solo alla velocità di 3 Hertz. I più alti ‘Beats per Hour’ (BpH- battiti all’ora) permettono una maggiore precisione del calibro del Tourbillon. La maggiore oscillazione rende anche il calibro meno soggetto agli effetti della rotazione.

Numero Di Serie Individuale
Ciascuna gabbia del Tourbillon reca un numero individuale a riprova dell’Edizione Limitata di 188 pezzi. La minuscola platina in alto al centro della gabbia del tourbillon viene numerata in modo sequenziale sulla macchina CNC di Frédérique Constant. Il numero sulla gabbia corrisponderà al numero di Edizione Limitata sulla cassa, rendendo unica la combinazione di calibro e cassa.

Edizione Limitata a 188 esemplari.

Movimento – Automatico Calibro FC-980. Tourbillon un minuto. Ponte del bilanciere sul lato del quadrante. Diametro 30,50 mm (13 ¼ ). 28.800 A/h. 33 rubini. Sistema anti-shock Incabloc. Bilanciere in Glucydur. 1 molla a spirale Nivarox. Riserva di carica 48 ore. Ponti decorati a Côtes de Genève e perlage, finitura anglage e rhodiage. 188 componenti. Ogni movimento è numerato individualmente.

Funzioni – Ore, minuti, secondi, indicatore giorno-notte.

Cassa – Oro Rosa 18 carati, forma arrotondata, formata da tre parti. Diametro 42 mm. Spessore 11 mm. Fondello avvitato con 6 viti. Ogni cassa è numerata individualmente.

Quadrante – Vero smalto. Pregiati numeri romani neri. Lancette in acciaio nero. Indicazione giorno/notte in oro rosa e acciaio azzurrato.

Vetro – Zaffiro convesso antiriflesso, fondello cassa in vetro zaffiro antiriflesso.

Impermeabilità – 3 ATM (30 metri).

Cinturino – Vero alligatore cucito a mano con rivestimento impermeabile. Fibbia supplementare pieghevole inclusa.

Source / Fonte: Frédérique Constant

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Patek Philippe – Ladies First Split-Seconds Chronograph

At Patek Philippe, complicated watches for ladies are a venerable tradition. Long ago, the company introduced repeaters in delicate feminine formats that announced the time with gentle sounds as a very rare and exclusive musical diversion. More recently, the growing appetite among women for complex mechanical watches was sated with moon-phase displays, a second time zone, or the Annual Calendar in seductive timepieces for ladies. Now, during the advent of the 21st century, Patek Philippe presents the first Grand Complication for ladies: the ultra-thin Ladies First split-seconds monopusher chronograph Ref. 7059.

The brisk global demand for wrist chronographs quickly made the transition into the ladies’ watch segment. Patek Philippe responded in 2009 with the “Ladies First Chronograph” Ref. 7071R; it was endowed with the manufacture’s new chronograph caliber before the men’s model was launched. This new chapter opens with a strikingly elegant, and seductively beautiful ladies’ watch that incorporates a split-seconds chronograph; because of its mechanical complexity, it ranks among the so-called Grand Complications. The development of a split-seconds chronograph with column-wheel control in the format of an elegant ladies’ wristwatch is a venture for which Patek Philippe is clearly predestined: after all, its portfolio of movements includes the caliber CH R 27-525 PS, the thinnest column-wheel splitseconds chronograph in the world. The caliber number suggests its dimensions: Diameter 27.3 mm, height 5.25 mm. A caliber of this compact size fits in a case that looks very ladylike on a slender feminine wrist. The elegant rose-gold case with 226 diamonds will delight every woman, as will the mechanical marvel that quietly ticks beneath its dial.

For Cosmopolitan Women: The World’s Thinnest Split-seconds Chronograph
No eyebrows are raised today when an elegant, self-confident woman sits at the wheel of a high powered sports car or an SUV. It is no longer unusual for women to take a keen interest in the performance potential provided by variable valve timing or a dual-clutch transmission, so it is not surprising that complex mechanical timepieces are objects of desire for them as well. They are conversant with modern technologies but also know how to deal with lap and reference times.

They will appreciate the fact that the new Patek Philippe Ladies First split-seconds chronograph Ref. 7059 contains a mechanical movement that has held the world record in miniaturization for six years. With a height of 5.25 millimeters, the caliber CH R 27-525 PS is the thinnest column-wheel controlled split-seconds chronograph in the world. And with its patented innovations, it is also one of the most advanced chronograph movements of traditional design. Its makers pulled out all the stops to assure superior rate accuracy and reliability despite the compact dimensions of the caliber. Novel toothing geometries for the chronograph wheels improve power transmission while reducing friction and wear. The friction drive of the minute counter not only reduces the height of the caliber but also offsets the torque differences between the coupled and uncoupled states of the chronograph; this assures that the amplitude of the balance remains constant in every operating mode. The teeth of the manual winding mechanism also have a new profile. It becomes evident in the smooth responsiveness of the crown felt by the fingertips, a tactile experience referred to by insiders as “velouté Patek” – the Patek Philippe silk feeling. It is a sensual pleasure that perfectly matches the feminine look of the watch.

The Irresistible Combination Of Rose Gold And Diamonds
The case of this rare and exclusive Grand Complication for ladies unites classic design, traditional artistry, and feminine elegance with true panache. The distinctive Officer’s-style case with straight lugs and screwed strap bars reflects the classic-traditional aspects of the new Ladies First Split Seconds Chronograph Ref. 7059. Its feminine facets are underscored by the soft, romantic glow of 18K rose gold 4N and the fiery passion of the 153 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.72 ct.) set in its bezel. A close look at the two sparkling rows of precious diamonds raises the question whether the jeweler’s artistry at this extreme level – selection, arrangement, and setting of the stones – should perhaps also be counted as a complication.

The matt opalescent dial also tends to distract from the fact that the mechanical movement beneath it belongs to the so-called “domain of the extraordinary”. The applied Breguet numerals and all hands, including the chronograph and split-seconds hands, are crafted from 18K rose gold. The minute, subsidiary seconds, and 60-minute counter scales are transfer-printed in a rose gold hue. They decorate the dial with a delicate expression that forms a fetching contrast to the horological complexity of the timepiece. The genius that stands behind its functionality becomes evident when simultaneously starting the slender chronograph and split-seconds hands with the monopusher in the comfortably fluted crown, stopping the split-seconds hand with the pusher at 2 o’clock, activating the pusher again to cause the split-seconds hand to catch up with the chronograph hand, and finally resetting both hands to zero. This exquisitely choreographed mechanical ballet instantly wins over a woman’s heart.

A sapphire-crystal case back adorned with 76 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.40 ct. showcases the ultimate in watchmaking artistry. The focus is on two column wheels crowned with polished caps, a venerable tradition at Patek Philippe. They are framed by lavishly decorated bridges with polished chamfers and Geneva striping. The display back also reveals elegantly shaped parts and the striking bridges “à l’ancienne” with reentrant angles that can only be finished by hand, a process that requires exceptional talent and many years of experience. Movements like this cannot be produced with assembly-line methods. They are crafted individually by the hands of a master watchmaker. Because of this, Patek Philippe can only produce very few pieces of the Ref. 7059 Ladies First split-seconds chronograph per year. This makes them all the more tempting as cherished companions for women who are attracted to watchmaking prowess at its very finest.

Movement – Caliber CHR 27-525 PS. Ultra-thin manually wound mechanical movement, monopusher splitseconds chronograph with column wheels, chronograph and split-seconds hands, 60-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. Diameter 27.30 mm. Height 5.25 mm. Number of parts 252. Number of jewels 27. Power reserve 48 hours. Balance 2-arm Gyromax with 8 poising weight. Frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz). Balance spring – Breguet.

Functions – Two-position crown: Pushed in to wind the watch. Pulled out to set the time. Displays – Hours and minutes from the center. Chronograph (trotteuse) and split-seconds hands from the center. Subsidiary dials – Subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock. Continuously running 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock. Chronograph pushers – Chronograph start, stop, and reset with pusher in the crown. Start and stop of split-seconds hand with pusher at 2 o’clock.

Case – Officer’s-style case in 18K rose gold (4N), cambered sapphire crystal, bezel with 153 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.72 ct., screwed sapphire-crystal display back with 76 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.40 ct.. Diameter 33.2 mm. Height 8.6 mm. Width between lugs 21 mm.

Dial – Matt opalescent, powder rose imprint. Ten applied Breguet numerals in 18K rose gold. “Poire Stuart” hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold. Counterbalanced chronograph and split-seconds hands in 18K rose gold. Subsidiary dials – Subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock: Hands in 18K rose gold. 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock: Hands in 18K rose gold.

Water-resistant – 3 ATM (30 meters).

Strap – Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt mother-of-pearl hue, prong buckle in 18K rose gold with 26 diamonds totaling approx. 0.18 ct.

Source: Patek Philippe

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