Archive for category Watches

Speake-Marin – Marin 2 Mk1 Thalassa [Limited Edition]

It is extremely rare for every single component of a watch’s case, its dial and its movement to be designed by just one man. When that man has the talent of master watchmaker Peter Speake‐Marin, the result is a timepiece of transcendental harmony of form and function, aesthetics and technique. The result is the Thalassa.

Hours, minutes, seconds and date powered by a manual winding movement – the words almost belie the complexity of a timepiece whose each and every element has been thought out, designed, fabricated and hand‐finished with functional purpose, holistic unity and long‐term reliability in mind.

While the eye is immediately attracted to the visually striking blued‐hardened steel outer dial and the iconic Speake‐Marin wheel displaying seconds, the superb hand‐finished movement visible through the transparent sapphire inner dial soon draws the viewer’s gaze ever deeper, hinting at the complexities within. The juxtaposition of blued‐steel between the warm German silver bridges of the movement and white gold of the case highlights every aspect of this uncompromising watchmaker’s watch.

Turning the timepiece over, a panoramic display‐back filling the whole diameter of the case is revealed. The breathtaking vista of the calibre SM2m manual‐winding movement encompasses the hand‐finished, sweeping gothic curves of the German silver bridges, over‐sized jewels and screws and the elegant, double‐ended swan’s neck for the regulation. It also showcases the sublime artistry of the movement’s architecture. However, the fact that this apparently “simple” movement comprises 146 parts – more than many tourbillons – all of which have been manufactured specifically for this calibre is evidence that there is far more to it than meets the casual observer’s eye. From the sublime allure of its hand‐finished components to the over‐engineered quality of its mechanisms, the SM2m will provide both accuracy and pleasure in equal measure for generations to come.

“Stylistically I wanted this watch to be very recognisably mine. It follows very closely many of the features first seen in my original Foundation pocket watch, e.g. the topping tool inspired wheel (displaying the seconds), bridges in German silver, circular graining and large sweeping curves. My style is very representative of myself especially as I had no constraints imposed by existing movements components or constructions I was able to design this movement exactly as I wanted. This is the great advantage of starting with a blank sheet.” Peter Speake‐Marin.

The nautical ambience generated by the blued‐steel of the outer dial, hands and seconds wheel inspired the name “Thalassa”, a primordial sea goddess from Greek mythology and the personification of the Mediterranean Sea.

Marin 2 “Thalassa” – The overwhelming impressions on viewing and handling the Marin 2 “Thalassa” are those of complete harmony, between all of the elements both inside and out, and of solidity. As elegant as it is, the Marin 2 feels like, and is, a watch designed from the ground up to give reliable, accurate service for many generations.

Case – The 18k white gold “Piccadilly” case is an iconic Peter Speake‐Marin design. The basic shape was inspired by the working cases used to house prototype movements he worked with early in his career. The name “Piccadilly” is in honour of the formative years Peter spent working in restoration at Somlo Antiques in Piccadilly, London. The lugs holding the strap are designed to assure a solid connection to the case, with a screwed solid stainless steel bar attaching the strap to the lugs.

Dial – The dial comprises two parts: an outer dial of laser‐pieced hardened blued‐steel hand finished with hand‐applied Super‐LumiNova for the hours and minutes flush with the surface (rather than the more common method of printing the luminova on the surface), and an inner dial of transparent sapphire crystal allowing appreciation of the hand‐applied circular graining and micro‐mechanics of the top of the movement. Watching the wheels turn as you wind the watch is an interactively rewarding experience.

Hands and seconds wheel – Three‐dimensional blued‐steel Super‐LumiNova‐filled foundation‐style hands indicate the hours and minutes and impart an instantly recognisable Speake‐Marin element to the dial. The shape of the highly distinctive seconds wheel echoes that of the mystery winding rotor found on automatic Speake‐Marin movements and is inspired by the wheel found on antique watchmaker’s topping tools. Just hand‐bevelling the hardened‐steel seconds wheel takes over two hours and that care and dedication is typical of every component in the timepiece. While the second wheel is large, opting for small seconds over a central second hand allowed the movement to be slimmer (as well as incorporating the signature wheel shape).

Date ring – While largely hidden under the blued‐steel outer dial, except for the current date, every single number of the “Poor Richard” font has been individually sized and orientated by Peter Speake‐Marin to maximise and optimise its position and legibility in the date window at 4 o’clock.

Calibre SM2m
Motivation – “Developing a completely new movement like the SM2 is a massive undertaking, especially for an independent watchmaker like myself, but I took the plunge in 2007 and after more than two years of development, the SM2 became everything I hoped it would be and more.”

Philosophy and design – The SM2 is a totally original calibre with 100% cent of the components specifically made for this movement. It is the result of an Intransigent approach to movement architecture focusing on ease of servicing and maximum reliability and longevity, as well as beauty. An important criterion of the SM2m architecture was consideration for the watchmaker assembling the movement. For example, a window around the balance allows it to be easily viewed and manipulated. Myriad details like these, although technical in nature, add to the beauty and harmony of the design. This exceptional calibre is the result of enormous thought about every bridge, lever, wheel and jewel.

Fine finishing – The movement is hand‐assembled and finished. Unless for technical reasons all surfaces, visible or not, are finely decorated with an attention to detail usually reserved for very high‐end complications. Sensual, long‐flowing gothic curves form the untreated German silver plates, a material that is more demanding to work than conventional plated brass, but offers increased rigidity. Furthermore it slowly oxidises over the years to a high contrast patina highlighting the large jewels and polished steel surfaces.

Features – Calibre SM2m benefits from Peter Speake‐Marin’s over‐engineered approach to design, in which every element, right down to the jewels and screws, are selected with a view to maximising longevity. All wheels are made from a beryllium‐copper alloy, which has inherent self‐lubricating properties and higher tensile strength than the usual brass wheels. The balance beats at 21,600vph, providing higher precision than the traditional 18,000vph, while allowing both a lower mainspring tension (less wear) and a higher power reserve than the current standard of 28,800vph. The escapement has both fine and coarse adjustments of beat and rate, which is extremely complicated and expensive and will perhaps only be appreciated by watchmakers, but it is indicative of the movement as a whole. Like virtually every other component in the movement, the large diameter (10.9 mm) chronometer balance was designed by Peter Speake‐Marin as the part he wanted did not exist.

While the calibre SM2m shares the underlying architecture of the SM2a automatic movement, it required the development of a new mainspring, mainspring barrel, new barrel bridge, new train bridge, new main plate and a new setting mechanism combined with the calendar mechanism.

“While I have paid a lot of attention to the aesthetics, there are usually technical reasons for many of the design features. For example, on the back the over‐sized jewel for the mainspring barrel is visually very striking, but I have chosen that for its longevity and strength. The separate claw‐shaped escapewheel bridge allows the escapement to be removed without having to dismantle the entire movement.”

Limite Edition of 30 pieces.

Movement – Calibre SM2m manual winding. Frequency 21600 v/h (3Hz). Power reserve 80 hours. Number of jewels 23. Total number of components – 146. Chronometer balance – Masslots. Breguet over‐coil. 0118gr inertia 25mg.cm2. Bridges/main plate – German silver. Shock protection Incabloc. Movement assembled by hand. All bridges, levers and mainplate hand‐finished with circling, spotting, straight graining and polish. All pivots burnished.

Functions – Hours, minutes, seconds (wheel), date; manual winding

Case – 18K white gold. Dimensions 42 mm X 12 mm.

Dial – Outer dial laser‐pieced hardened blued steel with hand‐filled Super‐LumiNova filled hour and minute markers. Inner dial in sapphire crystal.

Hands – Flame‐blued steel with Super‐LumiNova centers.

Sapphire crystals – Anti‐reflective treatment front and display back.

Strap – Crocodile leather strap.

Source: Speake-Marin


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Hublot – Big Bang Black Caviar

(EN – IT)

Made entirely from ceramic (the ideal material for a watch: 30% lighter than steel, 100% scratchproof, 100% anti-allergenic, 100% unalterable and rust-proof) including the crown and dial, the Big Bang Black Caviar sports a unique design directly inspired by the famous One Million $ Black Caviar. Bedecked in uniform shades of black under the concept of “invisible visibility”, and with its ceramic reliefs designed, cut, bevelled and polished like the baguette black diamonds of its big sister, it comes in a diameter of 41 mm and is equipped with the automatic mechanical movement HUB1112. This watch features a date window at 3 o’clock and is mounted on a black rubber strap to provide exceptional comfort, flexibility and robustness. 42-hour power reserve, and water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres).

Movement – HUB 1112 Automatic, hour, minute, seconds. No. of Components 63. Jewels 25. Bridges – Satin-finished, bevelled and polished. Date – Window at 3 o’clock. Screws – Black PVD. Oscillating weight – Tungsten carbide with black PVD treated dimpled surface. Barrel – With reinforced spring. Escapement – Glucydur hairspring. Power Reserve – Approximately 42 hours.

Case – “Big Bang”. Diameter 41 mm. Polished black ceramic. Bezel – Polished black ceramic. 6 titanium H-shaped countersunk, polished & locked screws. Bezel Lug – Black composite resin. Lateral inserts – Black composite resin. Case-back – Polished black ceramic and sapphire crystal, with interior anti-reflective treatment. Crown – Polished black ceramic. Screws – Titanium.

Dial – Polished black ceramic. Hands – Faceted, diamond-polished, rhodium-plated, skeleton.

Crystal – Sapphire with interior anti-reflective treatment. Hublot logo transfer 12H.

Water resistance – 10 ATM or 100 metres.

Wristlet – Black rubber strap with the Hublot logo.

Clasp – Black PVD stainless steel deployant buckle.

Realizzato completamente in ceramica (il materiale ideale per un orologio: del 30% più leggero dell’acciaio, totalmente antigraffio, antiallergico, inalterabile e inossidabile) compresi corona e quadrante, il Big Bang Black Caviar esibisce un design esclusivo ispirato al famoso One Million $ Black Caviar. Questo modello, dalle tonalità di nero uniformi in omaggio al concetto di “invisibile visibilità”, con rilievi in ceramica disegnati, tagliati, smussati, lucidati come i diamanti neri taglio baguette del suo fratello maggiore, ha un diametro di 41 mm ed è dotato del movimento meccanico automatico HUB1112. Presenta un datario a finestrella alle ore 3 ed è completato da un cinturino in caucciù nero per aumentarne comfort, morbidezza e robustezza. Riserva di carica di 42 ore e impermeabilità fino a 10 Bar (100 metri).

Movimento – HUB 1112 Automatico, ore, minuti, secondi. N. di componenti 63. Rubini 25. Ponti – Finitura satinata, smussati e lucidati. Data – Finestrella alle ore 3. Viti – PVD nero. Massa oscillante – Carburo di tungsteno con superficie alveolata trattata in PVD nero. Bariletto – A molla rinforzata. Scappamento – Spirale Glucydur. Riserva di carica – Circa 42 ore.

Cassa – “Big Bang”. Diametro 41 mm. Ceramica nera lucida. Lunetta – Ceramica nera lucida. 6 viti in titanio a forma di H lucidate a specchio inserite a filo. Disco Anse – Resina composita nera. Inserti Laterali – Resina composita nera. Fondello – Ceramica nera lucida con vetro zaffiro, trattamento antiriflesso interno. Lunetta – Ceramica nera lucida. Viti – Titanio.

Quadrante – Ceramica nera lucida. Lancette – Sfaccettate, diamantate, rodiate, scheletrate.

Vetro – Zaffiro con trattamento antiriflesso interno. Logo Hublot 12H.

Impermeabilità – 10 ATM o 100 metri.

Cinturino – Caucciù nero con logo Hublot.

Chiusura – Deployante in acciaio PVD nero inossidabile.

Source / Fonte: Hublot

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Bell&Ross – BR 01 Airborne II & BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne [Limited Edition]

Created in 2009, the BR 01 Airborne model paid tribute to the extraordinary saga of military paratroopers, especially the US Airborne divisions that played such a distinguished role in the Second World War.Rubbing shoulders with danger on a daily basis, the young soldiers had adopted the skull and crossbones as a symbol of their courage to better defy death and intimidate their enemies. The skull and crossbones acted as a talisman during their missions and a continual reminder of how vulnerable they were to danger. In 2011, Bell&Ross is offering two new limited edition models of this talisman watch – the BR 01 Airborne II and the BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne.

Airborne Symbolism
The new BR 01 Airborne and BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne are both distinguished by their finishes, but are also consistent with the Airborne’s military symbol. .They share the same inspiration, shape and expression:

– The watch’s bezel and screws delineate a skull with crossbones that is perfectly integrated into the square shape of the brand’s iconic case.
– The single-color «phantom black» dial conjures up the symbolic color of death and sports the face of a seemingly-defiant skull and crossbones.
– The dagger – or sword-shaped hands, depending on the model, further evoke designs borrowed from military art.

The BR 01 Airborne II and BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne emphasize more than ever the talisman spirit of the original model and its symbolic function to the great delight of collectors.

BR 01 Airborne II Marking Time
The BR 01 Airborne sports an aged steel case, giving the original model the character and appearance of a watch which has acquired a patina over time. This «rifle barrel» finish is achieved by repeated random rubbings. This technique, which in no way alters the material, makes each piece unique.

The crystal, marked with a «jaw» index transferred onto the underside, and the brown leather strap, tanned like old leather with tone-on-tone stitching, gives this watch its inimitable style.

BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne Fine watchmaking and military symbolism
The BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne is an outstanding time instrument, a combination of military symbolism and an exclusive fine watchmaking movement.

It incorporates four additional watchmaking complications that blend perfectly into the skull and crossbones dial: a tourbillon, a precision indicator, a regulator and a power reserve indicator.

Clearly visible in its carriage positioned at 6 o’clock on the main timepiece, the tourbillon is the most noble of watchmaking complications. It compensates for measuring differences caused by Earth’s gravity when wrist movements rotate or accelerate, thereby improving the running precision of the watch.

The sophistication of this mechanism is truly a technical innovation that has called upon all the skills of in-house engineers and the cream of Swiss master watchmakers.

– The model has a 3D skull and crossbones dial that counts the hours, defying time further. The precision of its sophisticated structure is only possible thanks to today’s technological tools.
– The DLC-finish titanium case in its «phantom black» tone-on-tone finish is strong and lightweight while at the same time discreet.
– The black shagreen strap upholds the watchmaking qualities of this exceptional piece.

Bell&Ross is going beyond military symbolism with this new, exclusive model. Its sophistication recalls man’s vanity as portrayed in the world of art: works that remind men of the fragility of life and their humility when facing death.

BR 01 Airborne II –
Movement – Self-winding mechanical – ETA 2892.

Functions – Hours and minutes.

Case – 46 mm diameter. Stainless steel, black PVD finish. Screw-in crown.

2D dial – Photoluminescent black.

Crystal – Anti-reflective sapphire.

Water resistance – 100 meters.

Straps – Leather and heavy-duty canvas.

Limited Edition of 999 pieces.

BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne –
Movement – Mechanical with manual winding. Carbon fiber mainplates and bridges. Tourbillon carriage with black gold finish.

Complications and functions – Tourbillon. Regulator. Power reserve indicator (five days). Precision indicator.

Case – 46 mm diameter. DLC-finish titanium. Titanium screw-in crown. Sapphire caseback.

3D dial – Photoluminescent black with mesh-like design.

Crystal – Anti-reflective sapphire.

Water resistance – 50 meters.

Straps – Shagreen and rubber.

Limited Edition of 20 pieces.

Source: Bell&Ross

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Rado – D-Star Black Ceramic XL

(EN – IT)

This black high-tech ceramic watch with an automatic movement makes a bold statement, teasingly punctuated by the luminous white hands and indexes. It celebrates the unique shape of the range with over-sized dimensions, plus the Rado trendsetting role in the now huge popularity of black watches.

Movement – 11 ½ ETA 2824-2. Automatic. 25 jewels. 3 hands. 38 hrs power reserve decorated movement, yellow plated.

Case – Black polished high-tech ceramic case. Steel middle part, pressed on steel back with sapphire crystal. Steel crown with black ceramic cap. Dimensions – W 42.0 x L 46.0 x H 11.0.

Dial – Black matt with stamped wave pattern. 12 yellow applied indexes with white luminous. Black flange with yellow printed numbers and minute track. Yellow Rado and automatic logos, anchor moving symbol.

Hands – Yellow with white luminous.

Crystal – Curved sapphire crystal.

Water-resistant up to 10 bar (100 m).

Bracelet – 3-row black high-tech ceramic, titanium 3-fold buckle.

Questo cronografo da polso nero in ceramica high-tech a movimento automatico si distingue immediatamente per il suo look particolare, spiritosamente esaltato dalle lancette e dagli indici bianchi luminosi. L’orologio mette in risalto la forma unica della gamma con dimensioni extralarge e lo stile innovativo Rado nell’ormai diffusa popolarità degli orologi da polso neri.

Movimento – 11 ½ ETA 2824-2. Automatico. 25 gioielli. 3 lancette. Riserva di carica 38 ore. Movimento decorato, placcato giallo.

Cassa – Ceramica high-tech lucidata in nero. Parte centrale in acciaio, pressata sul retro in acciaio con cristallo in zaffiro. Corona in acciaio con cappuccio in ceramica nero. Dimensioni – La 42.0 x Lu 46.0 x Al 11.0 mm.

Quadrante – Nero opaco con disegno ad onde stampato. 12 indici applicati in giallo con parte luminosa in bianco. Logo giallo Rado e Automatic, e l’ancora simbolo del movimento.

Lancette – Gialle con parti luminose bianche.

Cristallo – Zaffiro a cupola.

Impermeabilità – 10 Bar (100 metri).

Bracciale – Ceramica high-tech nera a file, fibbia triplice in titanio.

Source: Rado

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Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art Perspectives d’Art “Dove” (Only Watch 2011)

This model embodies an exceptional association of the famous Métiers d’Art cultivated within the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin: engraver, enameller, gemsetter and guillocher are working together to create this unique magnificent watch, especially developed for Only Watch. Inspired by the technique of repetitive tiling designs known as tessellation, this “Métiers d’Art – Perspectives d’Art” watch invites observers to explore a reality that plays with human perception.

This watch combines several of the Manufacture’s artistic crafts that vividly express the theme of perspective in order to accentuate the sense of depth, each according to its own technique. The watch gold, enamelled and diamond-set dial adopts concepts such as geometry, symbolism and motion, subtly nesting and layering them in order to generate several levels of meaning and interpretation.

This timepiece is inspired by a drawing by Maurits Cornelis Escher – a Dutch engraver and graphic artist (1898-1972) whose work was based on a subtle play on architecture, perspective and space. This one-of-a-kind creation depicts a flight of red and white doves – the Only Watch colours – born from the Métiers d’Art exercised within the Manufacture. These birds – symbols of hope and love – are exquisitely interlocking like jigsaw puzzle parts or tessellations, these skills combine in creating a truly stunning decorative motif. Within the case beats high-precision mechanical self-winding Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. In addition to the extreme reliability of this entirely in-house developed and produced mechanism, it is adorned with exquisite hand finishes crafted in accordance with Geneva’s noblest Fine Watchmaking traditions.

Movement – Calibre 2460 SC, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva. Mechanical, self-winding. Diameter 26.20 mm (11 lignes ¼ ). Movement thickness 3.60 mm. Jewels 27. Frequency 4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour). Power reserve – Approximately 40 hours. Number of components 182.

Functions – Hours, minutes and center seconds.

Case – 18K white gold. 40 mm diameter.

Dial – 18K gold. Engraving with champlevé enamelling. Red birds – Translucide enamelling. White birds – Opalescent enamelling. Gold birds – Hand-guilloché. One bird set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds, total weight of approx 0.08 carat.

Water resistance – 3 Bars (30 meters).

Strap – Black Mississippiensis alligator, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales.

Clasp – 18K white gold buckle, polished half Maltese cross.

Source: Vacheron Constantin

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Romain Jerome – Space Invaders [Limited Edition]

Don’t spread the news, but they are already among us: since first landing on our planet in 1978, the SPACE INVADERS® have colonised our world to the point of imposing their subliminal image on the collective unconscious of millions of human beings – many of them cured from their youthful game addiction only by the fact of reaching a more mature age..

RJ-Romain Jerome, in connivance with TAITO Corporation (TAITO) is becoming an accomplice of this incursion by agreeing to create two 78-piece limited series in honour of these SPACE INVADERS. Reality at last surpasses fiction.

Manuel Emch, CEO of RJ-Romain Jerome, freely admits to belonging to the generation of former SPACE INVADERS junkies. The game has become a legend for all those who grew up in the 80s, since it was the first « Killer app » for video game consoles installed in gaming arcades. The SPACE INVADERS craze even led to a shortage of 100-yen coins when it was first released in Japan. SPACE INVADERS with its pixelated figures was the first ever « iconic » form of entertainment: thousands of hours of TV programs and hundreds of cultural exhibitions have been devoted to this generational « legend ».

So why a Space Invaders limited series from RJ-Romain Jerome ? One possible response – although the truth doubtless lies elsewhere – is that no other brand could have risked such a daring evocation of this epoch-making video legend. By agreement with TAITO Corporation (TAITO), RJ-Romain Jerome is paying tribute to late-20th century pop culture by launching a double limited-edition of Space Iinvaders watches, designed like generational totems. By allowing the Space Invaders to proliferate on the dial of these watches, Manuel Emch is proudly proclaiming the brand’s resolutely standout mission within the fine arts of contemporary watchmaking.

Inheriting the highly distinctive case of the Moon Invader series (a round shape within a cambered 46 mm square, with a round front and an almost rectangular back), the Space Invaders have also kept the same steel coalesced with fragments from the Apollo 11 capsule. It is no coincidence that this case is designed like a strongbox, or even like a space vessel capable of travelling great distances, since that kind of vehicle is exactly what is needed to facilitate the Space Invaders colonisation of our daily lives.

The four functional ball-and-socket joints of this rounded squares are cut like the pivoting « feet » of the lunar landing modules of the American lunar missions. These extremely sophisticated components mounted on axles anchored in the case hold the lugs of the rubber straps and enable the watch to adjust to all kinds of wrist sizes.

The RJ security screws (stamped with four cup marks), representing the Space Invaders signature feature, are echoed on the functional movement-locking screw on the case-back. They confirm both the legendary universe and the distinctive RJ design codes.

Embodying another tangible token of the space age symbolised by this new Space Invaders collection, a dedicated plate made of Moon SilverRJ– a silver alloy with an extremely low oxidisation rate incorporating moon rocks – appears on the stellar-patterned back of the watch. This engraved plate reproduces the lunar surface, of which the mineral particles interact on an infra-molecular level with the wearer of the watch. The veined pattern and grainy texture also extend along the rubber strap.

The two 78-piece limited series are distinguished by their dial. The latter is composed of three layers of pixelated and shotpeened dies featuring hand-drawn file strokes. The 3.5 mm-sized Space Invaders are lacquered in different colours (« day » version) or coated with Superluminova (« night » version), each individually machined and hand-applied. These invaders are a playful nod that transforms these watches into inspired talking pieces capable of creating ties based on natural affinities between the people wearing them – and who in doing so consciously adopt this humorous and original way of thumbing their noses at classic watchmaking conventions. A new contemporary and generational legend is born..

Source: Romain Jerome

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Urwerk – UR-103 Phoenix (Only Watch 2011)

At Urwerk, while our forte is just balance wheels and pinions, we share that very same drive and a desire to instil that little extra something in our creations, investing all our passion and savoir-faire. However, to dedication and know-how, we must add the financial means necessary to make progress. That is why Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and Urwerk co-founder, is proud to announce Urwerk’s presence at Only Watch, the charity auction to benefit research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, held in Monaco on the 22nd of September 2011, under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II.

As an expression of commitment to the Only Watch cause, Urwerk will be auctioning the UR-103 Phoenix, a unique timepiece made of white gold and hand-decorated by master engraver maker Jean-Vincent Huguenin, one of the most gifted artists in this field. Fascinated by universal cultures and legends, Jean-Vincent did not take long to decide on the theme of this mythical bird, revered in Ancient Greece as well as being a legendary hero in China and Japan. In his steady hand, Jean-Vincent has been able to conjure up one of Urwerk’s iconic creations and give it a new, universal dimension.

And so, in recognition of all those engaged in the battle to save children from muscular dystrophy, the UR-103 sports that most quintessential symbol of resistance and resilience: A phoenix rising from the flames.

“In our daily lives we all have objects that are slightly talismanic,” says watch artist and Urwerk cofounder Martin Frei. “We love to have them at our side, in touching distance. Without giving them a mystical value, we assign them a virtue, an ‘aura’. With this in mind, we have designed the UR-103 as a veritable talisman – a source of energy for its future owner.”

Dial Side. The time on the 103 is indicated by the orbiting hour satellites as they pass the arc of the minutes. The slanting sides of the hour satellites ensure an unencumbered view of the time without turning the wrist – even while driving – while bold SuperLumiNova provides excellent visibility by both day and night. The rotating satellite complication is the heart and soul of the 103 series of watches. The orbital cross carries the four hour-satellites and an internal Geneva cross governs each of these satellites. These Geneva crosses offer very low-frictional properties but must be manufactured to extremely precise tolerances. Each of the satellites features three hour numbers. As a satellite approaches the crown, its Geneva cross engages a pin which rotates the disk 120° so that the new hour takes its position. High-tech grade 2 titanium is used extensively throughout the satellite complication including in the construction of the orbital cross and the Geneva crosses. The strength and lightness offered by titanium provides lower inertia and improves the synchronicity of the movement. The hour satellites are crafted from aluminium. Integrated lugs holding the strap ensure that the sleek case fits comfortably on a wide variety of wrist shapes and sizes.

Control Board. The Control Board on the back of the 103 features the following indications and functions: The Chrono Meter with its dual 15 minute and seconds dial for maximum precision when setting of time. The 36 hour Power Reserve indicator. A Fine Tuning screw which allows the user the possibility of adjusting the watch’s timing +/- 30 seconds per day.

Movement – Caliber UR 3.03 manually wound. Balance – Monometallic. Frequency 21,600v/h, 3Hz. Power reserve 36 hours, single mainspring barrel. Surface finishes – Circular-grained and rhodium-plated baseplate. Chamfered and polished screw heads.

Indications – Wandering hour indication on a four-arm carousel. On the back – Control board in titanium with Power-reserve indicator. 15-minute and 60-second dials for precise time setting. Surface finishes – Sandblasted and satin-finished carousel; circular graining. Plasma-Enhanced Chemical Vapour Deposition. Luminous hours and minutes scale.

Controls – Two-position winding crown. On the back – Fine tuning screw (fast/slow).

Case – White gold, back in titanium. Dimensions 50 mm x 36 mm x 13.5 mm. Surface finishes – Polished case. Hand engraving. Back PECVD (Plasma-Enhanced Chemical Vapour Deposition) treated.

Glasses – Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance – Pressure tested to 3 ATM (30 meters).

Source: Urwerk

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