Available in a limited edition series of 50, the Masterpiece Calendrier Rétrograde and Masterpiece Double Rétrograde are produced in pink gold. The large 46 mm diameter cases, statuesque in appearance, afford time a space in keeping with its dimensions. The case, which is water-resistant to a depth of 50 m, has a very contemporary style polished and satin finish, with nothing superfluous and no decorative flourishes. Its plain simplicity is echoed in the blue dials that display the time data in a methodical and practical fashion, whatever the model.
One model features a retrograde date at 10 o’clock, the other a GMT double retrograde and date at 12 and 6 o’clock. The delicately cut out displays, stylish despite their technical sophistication, are enhanced by the sun-brushed satin finish of the dial, the deep blue colour of which confirms their credentials. The power reserve display, located at 2 or 3 o’clock depending on the model, is characterized by its bold, dynamic appearance. The pink-gold applied markers sit in a curve that stretches out gradually, giving a real impression of movement. As for the small seconds hand, it circles regularly without stopping.
In a clear, striking contrast, the fine pink-gold hands skim round the blue dial, their diamond-cut finish further enhanced by their gently curved shape. The absence of an arbor hole confirms traditional design where attention to the minutest detail is taken to its extreme. The purity, the quiet poise of the design that emanates from these timepieces cannot fail to evoke the most beautiful architectural creations where design, distilled to its purest essence, transfigures form and function. Perfect visual harmony and crystal-clear legibility testify explicitly to this.
The self-winding movements, ML 190 for the Calendrier Rétrograde and ML 191 for the Double Rétrograde, are created in the pure tradition of Swiss watchmaking. The finish, even of the tiniest component, invisible after the watch is assembled, can be seen through the sapphire crystal case backs. Their 16½ line diameter makes them among the largest automatic calibers in the market.
Movement – Automatic movement, self–winding ML 190 (Calendrier Rétrograde) and ML 191 (Double Rétrograde). Vibration – 18,000 vib/h, 2.5 Hz. Power reserve – 52 hours. Jewels – 57. Adjustments – 5 positions after full winding and after 24 hours. Decoration – Vertical brushed and Grand Colimaçon, rhodium-plated.
Functions – Double Rétrograde (ML 191) – Hours and minutes indicated by central hands. Date indicated by retrograde hand at 6 o’clock. 2nd time zone indicated by retrograde hand at 12 o’clock. Small seconds hand at 9 o’clock. Power reserve hand at 3 o’clock. Calendrier Rétrograde (ML 190) – Hours and minutes indicated by central hands. Date indicated by retrograde hand at 10 o’clock. Small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Power reserve hand at 2 o’clock.
Case – 18K pink gold, Ø 46 mm, satin and polished finishes. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 m/5 atm.
Dial – Based on a solid 925 silver plate. Deep blue color, with sun brushed finishing. 18K pink-gold diamond-cut applied hour markers, small seconds and power reserve indications.
Hands – 18K pink-gold stamped hours and minutes hands with diamond-cut head in the pure tradition of hands-making. 18K pink-gold hands for small seconds and power reserve indications. Rhodium-colored hand for the retrograde indications.
Strap/Bracelet – Black large-scale crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching.
Buckle – 18K pink-gold standard buckle.
Total Gold Weight – With standard buckle: 81.4 g (18K).
Source: Maurice Lacroix